Three Weeks With My Brother(s): Part 2

Jan. 17, 2016

We enjoyed a nice buffet breakfast this morning, with plenty of western food available.  China Tours guide, Joe, was waiting with a smile, right on time.  We walked out into a cold, blustery morning with a dusting of snow and a surprisingly-blue sky.  The wind and snow must have cleared away the smog.

The driver dropped us outside the Gate of Heavenly Peace on the north end of Tiananmen Square, a remnant of the 36-foot-high wall that used to encompass the city; the wall was torn down in the 1960s.   We had a long, cold walk to the guarded entrance, where we passed through security scanners.  From the entrance, we walked across the massive expanse of Tiananmen Square to the area between the Gate and Mao's tomb.  The gate, most recently rebuilt in 1651, has five huge gates, and the center gate's use was restricted to emperors only, from the Ming and Qing dynasties.  (Emperors before these dynasties had their capital in Xian.)  The center gate is on the meridian line, which cuts directly through the center of the city of Beijing, ending at the new Bird's Nest stadium from the 2008 Olympics.  Mao's picture is on the meridian line, thus in the direct sun.

blowing snow in front of the Gate

In front of Mao's tomb are statues glorifying the working class.  Just behind is the Revolution Monument, erected to memorialize World War II and the Civil War.  The Civil War ended in 1950 with the country being divided; followers of Chiang Kai-Shek in Taiwan, and followers of Chairman Mao in the People's Republic of China.

our guide, Joe, in front of Mao's tomb

Revolution Monument and government offices behind

 All buildings in the Forbidden City, inside Tiananmen Square, are red, the color of royalty.  This was an indication to the people that they were not allowed to pass through these walls.  A soldier stood guard on a small pedestal outside the Forbidden City, a difficult assignment on a day like this.  The design of the Gate of Heavenly Peace is repeated again and again inside the City - huge, red-brick structures with gold slate roofing, concrete made with sticky rice water, and giant cedar tree trunks covered in lacquer for the pillars.

P, B and F (Forbidden City)

the punishment area; note the huge cedar pillars

central entrance for emperors only!

details on the eaves and ceiling - dragon corners

chilly soldier standing guard
next to dragon totem

The dragon is a combination of many animal forms, such as snake, bird, fish and deer.  It was the totem of the emperors, a symbol of the unification of many tribes.  No one else was allowed to use this symbol without the Emperor's permission.

The outer area was used for punishment - frequently one hundred whacks with a bamboo stick.  The second area was the meeting area.  Only senior advisors were allowed here, and they were required to enter through the side gates.  The third area was the living quarters of the emperor, his wife, and his many concubines.  Each entrance had raised walls that had to be stepped over - designed to keep out bad spirits.  No children lived in the Forbidden City unless one was being trained as the future emperor.

Throne room

The last emperor, immortalized in the 1987 movie of the same name, was just ten years old when he ascended to the throne.  He had some of the raised walls removed so he could ride his bike through.  This was considered bad karma, and sure enough, his reign only lasted three years, ending in 1912.

Where the last emperor rode his bike

Enormous vats circled the area, collecting water for extinguishing fires.  Slaves would stand guard, keeping the fires burning in winter, so the water would not freeze.  Big incense burners in front of the buildings contributed to the ethereal image of the emperor, much like smoke machines at a rock concert today.  Bronze lions stood guard at each entrance, one male with a ball in his claw (power), and one female with cubs (fertility).  Typical pushing, impolite tourists made it difficult to see inside the throne rooms.

incense burner - "Cue the smoke!"

 

Dragon motif repeated throughout

We were grateful for the warmth of the museum on the grounds,  We saw relics of lacquered wood, that were painted with 20 to 30 coats, then engraved while still soft, and placed outside for a week to harden.  Many relics from imperial banquets were one-of-a-kind; all the other pieces from the set were broken to keep them from falling into the hands of commoners.

Extensive gardens and concubines' rooms make up the south end of the City.  The gardens didn't have much greenery this time of year, but the prominence of natural stones and bonsai were evident.

We were met by our driver on the other side of Tienanmen Square, grateful we didn't have to cross the windy expanse again.  He drove us to an area of a traditional Hutong neighborhood, a maze of tiny homes sharing community bathrooms on narrow alleys.  Two hardy rickshaw bicycle drivers took us on a short tour, with tiny lap blankets that didn't do much to stave off the cold.  I felt guilty having these gentlemen haul us around in the frigid weather.  The Hutong didn't have much of a traditional feel, with fairly modern-looking abodes.  We did see a couple of tradional doorways, and a "porch" created by bamboo(?) branches.

After our ride, we were ready for an indoor activity; happily it was lunchtime, and our first real taste of Chinese food did not disappoint.  The place Joe took us was crowded with locals, and we enjoyed Kung Pao Chicken, Sweet and Sour Pork, and Fried Dumplings, along with some delicious jasmine tea.  Our guide also talked us into trying the whole garlic cloves the locals eat with their meals.  I wasn't a huge fan, but M was in heaven - he loves garlic!

In the afternoon we drove outside the city to the Summer Palace; a beautiful, 300-acre property where the royals spent their summers.  It has a huge, man-made lake and canal that carried the empress by boat from the Forbidden City.  The lake was frozen, and hundreds of people were skating or sledding on various contraptions under a vivid blue sky.  It reminded me of a scene from "Hans Brinker."

Guards trying to stay warm

A long corridor ran along one side of the lake.  Since summer is rainy season here, this allowed them to walk outdoors in inclement weather.  The corridor is very ornate, each beam bearing one of the 10,000 paintings along the walkway.  At the end of the walkway is a boat made of marble.  It was constructed on a concrete platform, and kept the diners cool whilst dining alfresco.  A beautiful retreat from the city.

another throne

the marble boat

We made a quick stop on the way back to get some pictures of the Olympic structures - the Bird's Nest, the Water Cube, and the unusual Pangu Seven Star hotel.  Then back to the hotel to thaw out with some warming cocktails and nibbles.

The Bird's Nest

The torches

The Pangu Hotel

The Water Cube