We Are the Change We Seek

Dec. 9, 2016


Last time I visited Bpra Sat Sa Ja Tam, or Sanctuary of Truth, a guide told me that this beautiful edifice is open to the public for free every December 9th.  I put it a reminder in my phone calendar, and the reminder popped up on my phone a week before.  Then an announcement was made at church that several different religious groups were gathering there this year to pray for the departed king.  Tim was still in India, so I let Mick know I wanted to go.

I tried to explain the event to Mick, and told him I'd heard one hundred monks would be there.  He said he was sure it wouldn't be one hundred monks (Pra), but rather one hundred young boys, novices (Nehn.)  Many boys, whose families can't make ends meet, live and attend school in Buddhist temples, wearing the bright orange fabric and having their heads shaved.  Mick said they are referred to as novices until the age of nineteen.  After nineteen, a young man may go to a temple for a short-time service as a monk, often just two or three weeks.  When he first enters, he is considered a novice.  In an initial ceremony, he must be able to provide the correct responses he has studied beforehand.  If he is successful, he is then considered a monk.  Nearly all young Buddhist males devote a period of their lives to being a monk.  They see this as a way to make merit for their families and become better men.  Reminds me somewhat of the Kairos retreats our boys attended in high school.

The church announcement said the event would begin at 1:30 p.m., but when I arrived around 12:30, things were already under way.  As I passed under the banner for the king, I saw that Mick was right about the novices - young boys in orange robes, or kasaya, were everywhere.  It seemed more like a summer camp event for them, as they played on hanging ropes, climbed wooden walls, and raced one another.  I also noticed many military groups and school groups on the grounds.

I descended the long, wooden steps down to the lower level, and heard joyful chanting and singing over the PA system as I entered the sanctuary.

The Sanctuary of Truth is divided into four wings, with a large Buddhist altar in the middle.  One wing was crowded with people, and I found several Hindus sitting in rows on the floor.  Some were wearing traditional saris, and many more wore black to mourn the king.  A man I couldn't see was leading a prayer service of some kind, with the crowd repeating back everything he sang.  It started slowly, and built up into a very lively, almost frenzied singing.  While the singing continued, a steady procession advanced to the front to pay homage at the makeshift altar.

a woman offered to take my
picture, so I reluctantly agreed

After the Hindu service, an announcement was made that the Christian service would soon begin.  I saw our pastor helping to dress the altar in another wing, and took a seat in one of the very ornate chairs that were set up there.  I hoped I wasn't sitting in some dignitary's spot, but saw others doing the same.  It was quite hot, but I found a seat near a windy opening, and was happy to forgo keeping my hair neat for a steady breeze.  A group of older Thai men and women arrived and sat in the front section of chairs.  They were all wearing black, and many of the women had glittery pins in the shape of the Thai symbol for nine, honoring Rama IX.  These were clearly well-to-do Thais who were probably very involved with the church, although I didn't recognize any of them.  Guess they don't go to the English masses.



It was moving to see the crucifix with the Buddha relic in the background - a lovely reminder of one God, many names. Booklets were distributed, and I quickly realized the entire service would be in Thai, so I gave mine away (not to the reading level yet).  Each time someone tried to give me one, I'd tell them Ahn Mai Dai Ka (can't read.)  The service, led by the bishop, wasn't a mass, so I didn't understand much.  But it was good to be a part of the group representing the Christian faith.  It was nice to see several Hindi and Sikh followers coming to support the Christian service.

When the Christian service was done, another announcement said the Sikh service would begin soon.  After posing for pictures, the bishop and many others took a seat in the wing where the Sikh service would take place, another lovely display of mutual support and respect.  The Sikhs in their turbans sat on a raised platform and sang and played musical instruments in a middle-eastern style.  I found it interesting that women led much of the singing.  Some of the men wore striking beards on their chins.  A man stood at the end and spoke in Thai and English.  I was most appreciative that he included English, and thanked him afterward.

I saw stacks of prayer rugs in another wing, but concluded that I must have missed the Muslim and Thai services, because everyone soon filed out onto the grounds.  It looked like many of the different religious leaders were gathering under a large tent, and a man was addressing them in Thai.  I climbed back up the long, wooden stairs and waited to be picked up, my faith renewed in man's ability to get past his differences and come together in peace and respect.  A beautiful event.