Good People

Thais are some of the dearest, most generous people.  I had to share a couple of recent stories with you to illustrate.

First, my friend Mika's daughter has had recurring sniffles and coughs of late, as little ones are prone to do.  The two of them frequent a banana vendor near their place where you can buy delicious banana slices on a skewer.  The banana vendor expressed concern for little Momo.  The next time they saw her, the woman had gone and bought her some cough medicine - so sweet!  You know a woman who runs a banana cart for a living does not have a lot of extra baht laying around.  Very touching.

The second happened just today.  Tim's boots were very muddy from our ATV adventure, and have been sitting outside our condo ever since.  I decided today I would see if I could get them cleaned up.  We don't have a utility sink for dirty jobs like this, so I grabbed a scrub brush and some paper towels and headed downstairs with a vague notion of cleaning them somewhere near the water.  When I got down to the gardens, I saw the garden hose, which led me to one of the maintenance men who was watering the plants.  The gardens here are extensive, and watering and pruning are all-day, every-day jobs.  I asked him to put a little water on the boots for me.  Instead, he took the scrub brush from me and spent a good five minutes scrubbing those filthy boots, getting dirt out of every little nook and cranny.  I felt so guilty, and tried to tell him I would do it.  But he just did that polite Thai giggle and completed the job himself.  What a kind, selfless thing to do.  It brought to mind the story of Jesus washing the feet of the apostles.  Made me smile all day.

& Sons (Part 1)

The Michigan Invasion!  Tim and Mike finally arrived after an epic, thirty-hour journey from DTW to Boston to Dubai to Suvarnabhumi airport in Bangkok.  We'd told Mike that Mick would pick them up, and he said he was hoping to have someone holding a sign with his name when he came off the plane.  Consider it done, my son:

The five of us, Mick, Tim, Tim Jr., Mike and I, piled into our Ford Everest and headed to Pattaya.  The skies grew darker and darker the closer we came to Pattaya, and opened up for a spectacular display of what Rainy Season looks like.  By the time we turned onto Sukhumvit, the main north/south drag, the streets were becoming impassable.  Traffic was squeezing over to one lane to try to avoid the rushing water.  In some places this was not possible.  Water was knee-deep at one point, but Tim told Mick to go ahead through the water, because our SUV rides a bit higher than many of the cars that were turning back.  It was dicey, to say the least, but our trusty driver made it through.  Whew - welcome to Thailand, boys!

This poor guy was walking his
motorbike through the flood
(sorry for the blur)

photo from Mika

 We gave the boys a few hours to decompress from the flight, then headed out to dinner.  Most of the roads were passable by then; the water accumulates quickly, but usually recedes within a few hours.  Tim Sr. was taken to a restaurant here on his first trip to Thailand, a place I had heard good things about but had never been myself.  The strangely-dubbed "Cabbages and Condoms" (yes, you read that right) is actually a lovely restaurant on the beautiful grounds of the Birds and Bees Resort, overlooking the gulf.

Cabbages and Condoms Pattaya is part of the Birds and Bees Resort at the foot of Pratumnak Hill in South Pattaya. It was started in the 1980s by Mechai Viravaidya, a former politician and activist, who is so widely known in Thailand, (that) ‘Mechai’ is now a slang word for condoms. The restaurant is part of a wider social initiative to help educate Thai people on a range of issues, such as sustainability, sexual health awareness and anti-corruption.

                                          http://www.bangkok.com/pattaya/cabbages-and-condoms-restaurant.htm#

The decor is in-your-face, condoms everywhere, even a condom tree and mannequins adorned with condoms.  It is a lighthearted way to deal with a serious issue.  Once you get past the "tee-hee" factor, the restaurant is quite nice, with a huge menu of Thai and western cuisine at reasonable prices.  Unfortunately, it was still raining on and off, so we were unable to sit down near the water.  And the challenge of the day was getting the waitstaff to stop pointing the hard-blowing fan in our direction.  One would seem to get the idea, then another would readjust it.  But, good food and conversation.  So nice to be together, jet-lagged or not!

Day two, we relaxed around the condo in the morning, swimming and lounging by the pool while the boys chased down the results of the weekend's NFL games.  Mike and Tim's fantasy football teams were going head-to-head, and it was kinda killing them that they couldn't watch the games.  (I shall not reveal the results here, as I love all my boys equally!)

In the afternoon, we headed to ATV Pattaya Jungle Adventures, just a twenty minute drive from home.  The website instructs participants to wear stuff you don't mind ruining, including closed-toe shoes.  So we stopped at Tesco-Lotus on the way, and the boys picked up a couple pairs of $6 shoes, as their flip-flops were not going to cut it.

The place was a bit tricky to find, but the lady was able to talk Mick through it, and we were soon suiting up for an afternoon of trail-riding on some ATVs.  We were provided with helmets, gloves, goggles and face masks, and given quick instructions on the do's and don't's of ATV operation.  "No donuts, don't use brake and accelerator at same time or you become Superman over handlebars..."  Mick was surprised to learn that I would be driving an ATV, too! 

We left Mick behind (he turned down our invitation to come), and the four of us headed off behind our lead driver.  We started out with about ten minutes on the streets getting to the trails, then followed along over dirt roads, and through plantations and "jungles."  It was pretty tame, which gave us lots of time to get used to driving the things.  It was pretty scenery, and I was a little disappointed that we didn't stop more often to get some pictures.  The guide, and Tim Sr. at the back, both had Go Pros on their helmets, videotaping the trek.  

Our one stop was at a waterfall, a very small, mossy-covered waterfall at the side of what might have been a previous construction site.  Our guide, who spoke very little English, kept saying "waterfall Pattaya."  Guess they made him practice that one.  It was a nice stop, and we got some nice, cold water before heading back on the trails.

"Waterfall Pattaya"

Having no previous experience on ATVs, I was unaware of the intense heat generated by the engine.  The inside of my right calf was well-cooked, especially when I would drive through a puddle and the water that splashed onto the engine became instant steam - yeow!  Next time I will opt for jeans over capris - lesson learned.

Upon our return, we were offered showers - basically a flexible hose with a shower head on one wall of a little bathroom.  It took a bit of maneuvering to keep the clean clothes dry and the towel at hand, but it was most-appreciated.  They put out a tray of fruit and some soft drinks, and showed us some of the video footage from the GoPros.  It was 1000 Bht (about $28 USD) to purchase the SIM card with our video.  I asked if she could just email it, and she said, "Yes, email free."  So we opted for that route.  Turns out "email free" means you only get a few photos, no video.  No matter, I imagine that two-hour video wasn't something we'd watch over and over anyway.  Fun day!

After a quick stop home, we headed to Central Festival to catch the new James Bond movie, Spectre.  Tim and Mike had planned to catch the midnight showing the night before their trip, but ended up not going.  So we got to see it together.  Without checking movie times, we were lucky to arrive just ten minutes before the next show.  Stocking up on popcorn and drinks, we went from our hot, sweaty afternoon to the air-conditioned chill of the movie theater.  The movie was fun and entertaining, but we all agreed that Skyfall was, by far, the better movie.  Liked the Sam Smith theme song, though.

After the movie, we wanted to give the boys a real taste of the flavor of Pattaya, so we walked down Beach Road to Walking Street.  I guess it's a little awkward to walk through the red-light district with one's parents;  the guys weren't really sure why we thought this was a good idea.  There was a much more visible police presence this time;  the authorities are making an effort to portray Pattaya as more family-friendly.  Always an interesting place for people-watching...

on Beach Road...

...Walking Street

 We met Mick at a designated spot, and he took us to Punch and Judy restaurant for a late dinner, where the staff treated Tim Sr. like he was Norm from Cheers.  He says he's only been here a couple of times...

Play

Our weekends are pretty precious to us.  We don't have much time together during the week; even when Tim is home, he is usually working.  So we enjoy getting out.  The big mall on beach road has many necessities all in one place: a bank to manage our finances, a haircutting place, a grocery store, movie theater and several restaurants.  One restaurants we've come back to a few times is the Hippopotamus.  It's an Australian outfit with a nice view and good beef, imported from "Franch," as it says on the sign.  (Perhaps this isn't "France," as we assumed, but some iffy supplier with a convenient mispelling...)

New haircut and a parfait
"Parfaits! Have you ever met a person, you say,
"Let's get some parfait," they say, "Hell no, I don't like no parfait."?
Parfaits are delicious!"

Another weekend, we decided at the last minute to go find some dinner, so without a driver, we walked just up the road to the resort that people constantly mistake for our condo, the Garden Cliff Resort and Spa.  We didn't even know if they served dinner, but we took a chance.  The entrance to the hotel is pretty magnificient, a fountain with huge, dragon/horses (?)  We asked for a "lahn-ah-hahn" (restaurant), and were swiftly led around corners and down stairways to a buffet overlooking the bay.  We said "two," and noticed several large, round tables of perhaps ten people each, mostly Chinese tour guests, we assumed.  The waiter said to follow him, and he walked to the end of the eating area and set up a small table for just the two of us, facing the water and the Sanctuary of Truth - lovely!   (We did feel a bit out of place, the only westerners off to the side of the crowd.)  We had no idea the cost, but gamely approached the buffet tables.  Seafood featured prominently, with crabs an apparent highlight.  Neither of us are big seafood eaters, but we found plenty of food to enjoy - soups, salads, stir fry, etc.  Turned out to be a bit pricey, but the scenery was worth it.  The fountain was even more impressive once it got dark and the lights were turned on...

Finally got hold of a newspaper (I can only get one if I make it to the Saturday evening mass, as they are always gone by Sunday's services), and found two concerts happening at the same time on the following Sunday.  A classical chamber orchestra from Sweden was performing at one hotel, and the Pattaya Classical Guitar Festival and Competition, sponsored by the Thailand Guitar Society (who knew?) was happening at another.  Since I'd not been to a classical guitar concert since the one given in college by my guitar professor, Charles Postlewate, that won my vote.  The event was taking place at the Siam Bayshore hotel, where I'd gone for my first classical concert in Pattaya.

The first time we came to this hotel, we drove up to what looked like the back door of the hotel, so we circled way around to the front.  Well, it turned out the concert was just inside that first door we'd come upon.  So this time, Mick let me out at the back door.  Only now, the event was near the main lobby at the front.  No matter, I knew my way around this place from the last time... Finally found the place in the lower level, and bought my ticket.  I was informed that the ticket was good for one San Miguel beer, too.  Kind of an odd combination, classical music and beer, but who am I to complain?

This was actually an all-day event, including a performance competition.  I arrived after the competitions to enjoy some very talented musicians, each performing for approximately 30-40 minutes.  The very soft-spoken emcee for the event practically whispered the introductions without first waiting for the audiences' attention - Thai politeness.  The first performer was the winner of last year's competition, a twenty-year-old Thai gentleman named Worrapat Yansupap.  He had the classic look of a passionate artist with the requisite messy crop of hair, and played some incredibly complicated pieces, including a sonata by Rodrigo and a prelude by Bach.

sorry, the video wouldn't load

He was followed by a duet, Pongpat Pongpradit and Chuah Yeong Chin...

At the break, I scooted up to the Sunrise, Sunset Cafe for a quick bite to eat.  They always serve their dishes beautifully here, a feast for the eyes as well as the tongue!

Just made it back in time for the next part of the program.  The first part of the program had only perhaps thirty or forty people in the audience, but as you can see in the pictures below, the room was now full, and I was lucky to find a seat.  A pushy American (imagine that!) appointed himself the camera police and berated a Thai woman for raising her phone to take a photo before the musicians started playing - so ridiculous and embarrassing.

But back to the music... Next up was Waratep Rattana-umpawan, one of the founders of the Thailand Guitar Society.  He was followed by my favorite performers of the night, a trio from Japan, Tomonori Arai (teacher), and his adult students Eisei Tanigawa and Takashi Endo.  They were brilliant, very entertaining and engaging.  They played every part of the guitar in ways I'd never seen before.

Next was a technically complex performance with very little emotion by European Leon Koudelak, artistic director for the Thailand Guitar Society. The final act was a female duet from Japan, Maria Duo.  Their schtick is eccentric outfits and lighthearted repartee between pieces.  "Maria Duo" comes from three Japanese words meaning "kindness," "an ideal," and "love."  They are all about spreading the joy, a bit of a throwback to the flower children of the sixties; a stark contrast to the European before them.

I had to sneak out at this point as the driver would be waiting, but it was just the right amount of culture fix - a most-enjoyable evening.

In other entertainment news, I thought you might enjoy seeing the Thai versions of these American game shows:

Move over, Drew Carey!

Carey on!

Devotion

October 27th marked the end of the three-months-long Buddhist Lent.  It is a solemn occasion, and another day when no alcohol may be sold.  

The end of Lent is marked by Ok Phansa. Ok Phansa marks the end of the "rains retreat" and the beginning of Krathin. Monks can return to their social duties and travel. Ok Phansa is also celebrated by lay people offering food and gifts to the monks. Ok Phansa is celebrated throughout Thailand but the celebrations vary by region.
According to legend Ok Phansa also celebrates the Buddha‘s return to earth, after spending one Lent season, which is 3 month long, preaching in heaven. It also marks the end of the Lent period of retreat and the beginning of Krathin, the traditional time for presenting new robes and other gifts to monks at temples throughout the country. 

                                                                                              http://wattampainenglish.com/

Mick said his wife and her family needed to go to temple in the evening.  He said when someone dies, they mark the first hundred days after, and go to temple to give something.  He struggled to explain, and I asked if he meant "tam-boon" (merit-making).  I remembered this phrase from the name of the character in my short story.  Mick said yes, that is what they were doing.  He asked if we do something like this in America, with an observance for so many days after someone dies.  I told him some temples do, but ours did not.  I tried to refer to the Jewish faith, but couldn't make myself clear.  He said after the 100 days, they make annual visits to temple to honor the deceased family member.  Do we do this?  I told him how we have one day each year where we all remember our deceased relatives together - All Souls Day.  Abstract ideas like religion and faith are much more difficult to explain in the simplified English we use to communicate.

One hundred days after the death, a Buddhist ceremony is done in order to perform final prayers. It is called ทำบุญ 100 วัน or"THAM BUN 100 WAN". Monks are invited (ทำบุญเลี้ยงพระ) to perform prayers. สังฆทาน or "SANG KHATHAN" are offered to Buddhist monks. Envelopes with banknotes are also given. It include miscellaneous items such as washing powder, medicine, monks clothes, fruit juice, candles, matches, soap, umbrella, sandals, lights, milk, tins, tooth paste and brush, water, toilet paper and so on... 

                                                                                          www.thaiworldview.com

I'm not sure if the 100th day coincided with the end of Lent, or if because it was within the 100 days, they needed to go to temple to make merit.  I asked what kind of offering they made - was it money, fruit, flowers?  He couldn't explain it to me, but said he would take a picture and show me.  He also said I could "open" TV around 8 p.m. and see what they do.  (They use the same word for "opening" and "turning on" something - เปิด, pronounced "pberd.")  The special Buddhist holidays all seem to involve processing three times around the temple while holding candles ("fire.")  Apparently this can take quite a long time when it is crowded with worshipers.

I couldn't find anything on TV, but he did send me a picture of their offering:

Nearly every street has shops that sell offerings to bring to temple.  Even most grocery stores have an aisle of these.  Many are prepackaged, and contain daily necessities for the monks, like toiletries and laundry soap.  The orange package on top is a monk's robe.  I often see ceremonies on TV where a dignitary is placing new robes on a shrine.  I rarely see anyone hand the offering directly to a monk.  And monks are forbidden to touch money; so if a donation is given, it must be placed inside something else.  Monks are also forbidden to touch women.  Money and women - the two evils!

Near the end of this three-month Lent, another nine-day festival takes place.  Commonly referred to as the Vegetarian Festival, this is a Taoist celebration when no meat is to be consumed.  Restaurants may hang out a yellow flag with the word for "jeh," indicating that they will not be serving meat.  Sounds healthy, right?  Well, this festival has a decidedly dark side.  (Stop reading if you are squeamish).  During this time, many devotees will enter trance-like states and perform ritualistic self-mutilation, usually by putting sharp objects like knifes or skewers through their tongues or through one cheek and out the other.  People will then put money on the ends of the skewers as an offering.  It is a Taoist festival, not a Buddhist one, so it is not so widely celebrated.

Thankfully, I did not witness any of this first hand...

Here's some religious-themed Thai English:  our new pastor really struggles with his English.  People fill out envelopes for their special intentions, and he reads them during the Eucharistic prayer.  Instead of praying for the "welfare" of so-and-so, he prayed for their "farewell."  Also, instead of praying for "the deceased," we offered up our prayers for "the diseases."  God bless us, everyone!