Point of View

February 10 - 20, 2016

A statue looks down on our condo from atop Pratumnak Hill.  The rental agent vaguely said it was a king when she was showing us the place.  My curiosity finally got the better of me, and with pleasant weather beckoning, I decided to make the hike up the hill.  Pratumnak Hill is ribboned with walkways that wind in seemingly random patterns, up and down and around.  I have searched in vain for a map of the hill, so I just started walking.

The incline was not too difficult, and the steeper routes were fairly easy to avoid.  Just a short distance up from our condo is a little plaza with some colorful outdoor exercise equipment than Ron and L enjoyed visiting.  From there I headed around the back of the hill, walking a rather long stretch of a road less-traveled.  A good number of stray dogs roam this area.  At one point a pack of six or seven gave me a bit of worry when a few circled in around behind me.  I was happy to come across people coming from the other direction at that point, and breathed a little easier.

Eventually I found my way to View Point, one of a couple of hilltops (The Big Buddha is on another).  I was surprised to find so much activity up here - from our window, it looks very quiet.  Several tourists were wandering around, and many shops offered food and trinkets.  A temple stood at the opposite end of the hilltop from the statue, and worshipers were wandering in and out.  Delivery trucks struggled to maneuver between parked cars and motorbikes.

Tourists must pass by a Royal Thai Navy weather station before reaching the statue. Upon arrival, I discovered that it is not, in fact, a king, but rather the twenty-eighth son of Rama V (King Chulalongkorn). This son, born Prince Abhakara Kiartiwongse in 1880,is known as the father of the Royal Thai Navy. His title is Admiral Krom Luang Jumborn Khet Udomsakdi, or Admiral HRH Prince of Chumphon.  He studied at the naval academy in England, and returned to modernize the navy of his home country.  He also studied medicine, and was believed to have supernatural powers. He died in 1923, but is still greatly revered by many Thais; some carry amulets of him for protection, and many worship and make offerings at his shrine.

The statue itself is a huge shrine, like an altar, where the devoted make offerings and prayers much like you would find at a Buddhist shrine.  The lookout area is shaped like the prow of a ship, and looks out onto the Gulf, with beautiful views in all directions.  Flowers color the viewing area.  The relentless afternoon sun beat down on this treeless venue.

I stopped for a banana roti, which I enjoyed under the shade of a tree, as I watched some chickens scratching in the dirt.  Fortified, I trekked back down the hill, and with just a couple of wrong turns, I eventually found myself back in front of our condo.

Ron and L stopped back for a few days after their Asian travels, and we enjoyed a trip to the weekend night market and dinner at Elements next door.  They brought us a beautiful tablecloth from Cambodia.  Ron picked up his custom-tailored suit, looking quite handsome in his new attire.  We bade them a sad farewell and closed the chapter on our family visitors for a bit.  So happy to have had this time together.

At the night market under a full moon

Three Weeks With My Brother 2.2

Feb 6-8

Our condo looks directly out onto a couple of small islands about five miles away.  The biggest one is Koh Larn, with about a dozen small hotels and B & B's, and several beaches.  A steady stream of speed boats and ferries carry tourists back and forth from the mainland.  At night I can see the lights on the island whilst lying in bed.  But we had never visited the island, and finally made plans to go while Ron and L were visiting.  Ron had expressed an interest in doing some snorkeling, and I'd heard snorkeling was available there.

Sun setting over Koh Larn

I mentioned to our driver that we were thinking of going, and he pushed for us to go on Saturday so he could go along and do some fishing.  He arranged a ride for us on his friend's speedboat, and picked us up early Saturday morning.  We drove to the beach in Jomtien, just south of Pattaya, where we met up with his friends.  Ron, L, Tim, Mick and I climbed aboard and the captain headed out to sea.  It was quite a windy morning and the waves were a bit rough.  The passengers at the back of the boat, myself included, were soaked by the relentless spray coming over the sides.  Next time I need to wear my swimsuit!  The trip to the island was a short 25 minutes.

The dry ones

The pilot circled around the south end of the island to Naul Beach.  I'd looked into the six main beaches beforehand, but failed to discuss with Mick which beach we wanted to visit.  Nual beach is a small, isolated beach with many sun loungers and umbrellas available to rent for the day.  The place was nearly empty when we arrived, and we selected our chairs.  Mick was planning to go back out on the water with a fishing friend, so he and the boat pilot waited on the boat.  We went in search of a place to change into our suits, and found a bare-bones, cinder block building that housed restrooms available for ten or twenty baht.  I gave the attendant a hundred and waited for the change for a long time.  When I finally went to look for her, I found her outside eating with a friend, with no clear intention of returning my money.  I got my change.   It was a crime that they charged for these facilities; most of the stalls were broken and disgusting.  We managed to find a fair one to change in, being careful not to let our clothes touch the floor.

We made a beeline for the water, and enjoyed a swim in the warm, salty sea.  The sand here is a bit on the grainy side, with little bits of coral here and there.  The sun was high in the sky by now, so we tried to limit our sun exposure.  Back at the chairs, we played some Chinese checkers and backgammon.  I attempted to make a stingray sculpture in the sand, but alas, a big wave thwarted my efforts.

Attendants stood at the ready to take orders for food and drink, and we ordered some Thai food for lunch.  The food wasn't bad, and was reasonably priced.  We had our fill, lounged about a bit, and went for a walk.  Walking from one end of the beach to the other didn't take much time.  Hillsides framed either side, one with red stone cliffs where we saw some adventurers climbing.  Monkeys are said to inhabit these hillsides, but we didn't see any when we were there.  Two tourists were reportedly bitten by monkeys here just a few days earlier, but I imagine the monkeys were provoked.  At the other end of the beach is a lower hill, and sadly, lots of garbage.  In-between are a few sparse shops selling swimwear and snorkeling equipment.

Ron and L walked over to where a couple of people were snorkeling, but the area didn't offer any kind of guided snorkeling to more interesting underwater scenery.  I'm afraid snorkeling here was a bust.

The intense backgammon rivalry continues..

After some time, Mick walked up to where we were sitting.  He said he was still waiting for the fishing guy, and realized he had left his phone in the car, so he had no way to call him.  At that point, he assumed the guy wasn't coming because the water was too rough for fishing.  So we took one last dip in the water, then packed up our stuff and got back on the boat for the salty, wet cruise back to Jomtien.  This time I wore my swimsuit and was prepared for the ensuing shower!  I enjoyed getting out on the water, but I'm afraid the island was a bit of a disappointment.  Perhaps we can give Koh Larn another chance by visiting a different beach next time.

Finished the day with a delicious dinner at Bite Me Bistro, a new restaurant in town with a questionable name but an excellent chef!  (We have taken to calling it Bi-Tay-May instead).

Yummy grilled pineapple

The next day was Sunday, Mick's day off.  We hung around the condo in the morning, and it was very windy and even a bit chilly - so rare and wonderful.  We played a windy game of Chinese checkers on the deck.  In the afternoon, we took a taxi to AMA tailors for another fitting for Ron, then we walked over to Tequila Reef and enjoyed their delicious frozen margaritas - truth serum.  Strolled down Beach Road a little ways, then grabbed a baht bus back to the condo.  Home-cookin' for dinner.

Monday morning we were all up early.  Ron, L and I left with Tim and Mick, and they dropped us at the Two Lions Pub for the Superbowl breakfast.  The place was full of Americans - I'd never seen so many in one place here.  Usually English-speaking events are full of Brits and Australians.  Interesting to watch the Superbowl abroad - when the million-dollar commercials were airing in the US, we just saw a still of the stadium for two minutes.  Even without the ads, it was fun to watch Peyton Manning collect another ring.

"Muricans"

Commercial time

After the game, Mick dropped me back at the condo, and drove Ron and L to the airport.  Alone again, naturally. (Cue the Gilbert O'Sullivan music!)


***Happy Birthday, Michael!***



 

Three Weeks With My Brother: 2.1

Feb. 4-5, 2016

We didn't have room for all our guests in our condo.  Luckily, there is a hotel on the property, so Ron and L stayed just across the parking lot from us.  They caught up on some z's in the morning, and the other guys headed to Dongtan Beach, just south of us.  Later, Ron, L and I took a short walk up the hill, and saw the back of the "Pattaya City" sign.  We went over to the beach and had a nice lunch at Sandbar By the Sea.  Bob and P joined us toward the end.  We were without the driver, who was picking Tim up from work, so Ron, L and I walked up the road from the beach to grab a taxi.  We decided to ride a Baht bus for a bit (they don't go all the way to our condo), and jumped on one that was very full.  It took us perhaps half-way back, then we hit the pavement again.  This stretch of road was really hot and busy with traffic.  We started looking for a taxi, but it took quite a while before we found one.  We were ready to cool off in the pool by the time we got back.  B, P and M got back a short time later.

The back of the "Y" in "Pattaya"

A lunch companion

For my sister who owns Shenanigans
in Houghton Lake, MI

We all had dinner together back at the condo - so great to share our home with family, if only for a couple of days.  Ron and L turned in, and the rest of us were convinced to go out to Walking Street.  This was the last chance for Bob, P and M to see it.  We had a good time and laughed a lot, stopping at the "Sugar Shack" for drinks.  The ladies seemed thrilled to have customers, but were a bit challenged by orders for something other than beer.  We guessed they were looking up directions for how to make them.  We were amused that they brought them to the table one at a time, with great discussion behind the bar between appearances.

Stuffed animal cart passing behind M at Sugar Shack

A street vendor got Tim's attention, determined to sell him a wrist band from her trove of trinkets.  The interaction between the two of them was very entertaining, to say the least!  He did, after intense negotiations, purchase a wristband.  A baht bus ride took us home.

Friday was B, P and M's last day with us.  Tim had to go to work, so Ron and L joined the four of us for a lovely breakfast next door at the Sheraton Hotel.  Then the guys got their things packed up while I pulled the sheets for a quick wash.  Ron and L would be moving over to our place for the next few days.  They checked out of their hotel room and brought their things over.

Morning coffee on the deck

Ron was interested in having a suit made while he was here, so the six of us squeezed into the car with Mick, and he drove us over to see AMA Tailors.  We were welcomed us like old friends; the owner amazingly called me by name and asked after Tim.  A tray of cold drinks was presented, and we sat in our "usual" spot.  Ron made his selections and got measured, while the guys wandered around the corner.












Next, we headed up to the north end of town to my favorite tea shop, Tea Village.  Both Vee and Lita were there, and generously spent a great deal of time with our group, allowing us to sample many different teas and sharing their vast tea knowledge.  We learned that some Thais believe Blue Pea Tea, or Butterfly Tea, will make one's hair darker; some even put it directly on a baby's head and eyebrows.  We saw the pictures to prove it.  The ginger tea was a big hit with everyone, and we all went away with a bag.

Afterward, Mick dropped us up on Big Buddha Hill, where we enjoyed the view.  A huge crowd of Indian tourists filled the stairs for photographs, so we waited for them to finish before heading up.  Bob picked up a cage of birds to release at the top.  When we finished, we made the trek down the hill and back to the condo in the hot and humid afternoon sun.  We all hit the pool and cooled off, then got ready for dinner.

Now we were eight, including the driver, and got really cozy for the drive to dinner at the Glass House.  We had a delightful meal on the beach as the sun set, and watched Chinese lanterns being sent to the heavens; a fitting celebration of our time together.

Mick dropped us back and the condo and drove B, P and M to the airport.  I so enjoyed our time together, and hope it will not be too long before we see each other again.  Bon voyage!

Three Weeks With My Brother: 2.0

Feb. 2 -3, 2016

Whew!  It took a long time to get the blog caught up with the China trip, and now I have fallen seriously behind with what comes next.  Let's see what I can remember...

I was home for about a week while my three amigos spent some time in Bali and Chiang Mai.  We rendezvoused at Tara Place hotel in Bangkok on February 2nd.  Tara Place is a nice little hotel in a good location.  We took a short taxi ride to the Grand Palace, which was already teeming with tourists.  After Paul visited the rent-a-pants office to cover his legs (he was wearing shorts), we got our tickets and went inside.  This time, instead of hiring a guide, I grabbed one of the self-guided tour recordings for, I think, around 200 THB.  Just had to make sure to return it within two hours.  The recordings were very detailed and didn't really allow for much conversation, so I only used it sparingly.

It was another hot and humid day, but I enjoyed revisiting the Palace with someone who hadn't been before.  Some buildings were open that weren't the last time we came.  We got to see the palace guards in formation, and the Dusit Maha Prasat throne hall, which is used for deceased members of the royal family to lie-in-state.  A beautiful mother-of-pearl throne, which didn't look at all comfortable, was the focal point of this nearly-empty hall.  We also saw a weapons room on the ground level of the palace; it looked like they saved every weapon ever used in the kingdom!

Palace Guards

In front of Dusit Maha Prasat Hall

I set my phone alarm to make sure I returned the device in time, but we made it back no problem.  We were waiting outside the "return-a-pants" office, when a guy next to me said, "Samsung?"  I wasn't sure what I'd heard, so asked him to repeat, and he said again, "Samsung?"  Taking a moment to flip through my virtual Rolodex of possible interpretations, it soon dawned on me that my phone alarm was going off.  I didn't hear it, but the guy next to me did, and got tired of listening to it!

We walked across the street and found a little cafe to have lunch.  Like nearly every restaurant in Thailand, they had the standard club sandwich on offer.  It was good to get out of the hot sun. After lunch, we walked around the back of the palace grounds to Wat Pho and the Reclining Buddha, then took a taxi back to the hotel.

In the evening we walked from the hotel to my favorite Bangkok restaurant, Steve Cafe, on the Chao Praya River.  It looked much closer on the map, until we realized the map we were using only showed the main roads.  At least we got a good, up-close tour of this area, including a huge market that ran along the canal.  We eventually found our way to Steve, and it was well worth the effort.  The food was delicious as usual, and the view was such a pleasure.  We were also entertained by a group having a party just the other side of the glass from us.  At one point they started a gift exchange, and we enjoyed seeing what everyone got.  Reminded my of the Farmington Library Christmas gift exchange - sometimes it got pretty intense!

In the morning, we grabbed some breakfast, and decided we had enough time to hit a nearby museum before leaving.  Again, the walk was longer than we thought; this time because we had to take a rather circuitous route to get there.  We veered away from our route to get across a huge, busy intersection, then circled a big park that actually had a huge expanse of grass.  (I don't get to see grass much in these parts.)  By the time we reached the museum, Mick called to say he was here in Bangkok, ready to pick us up.  So we aborted our plan, and headed back to the hotel.

Grass!

Along the way, B & M spotted a couple of men using Sign Language in the park, and decided to stop and talk.  By the time we reached the spot, one of the men had already walked to the other side of the park.  When the first guy understood what we were saying, he told us to wait, and ran across the entire park to retrieve his friend!  The four signers really enjoyed speaking to one another, teaching each other their own signs (not all countries use the same sign language).  One of those chance meetings that proved to be a great encounter.  Really nice guys.

Cool graffiti on our walk back

Mick was waiting for us when we finally made it back, and we all piled in the car and headed to Pattaya.  We had Mick drop us at the market before he headed back to pick up Tim from work, so the guys could do some last minute souvenir shopping.  M was happy to find a suitcase to replace the one that had broken on the way to China, and B and P found some T-shirts and ornaments.  We went back to Central Festival mall to cool off and had some delicious lebanese food at the Palace Restaurant.  Later we enjoyed some refreshments at Drift on the upper level of the Hilton.  It was quite hazy, so the view was not so spectacular, but still enjoyable.  We ordered pizza for dinner when we returned.  In the late evening, Bob and I went with Mick to pick up my brother, Ron, and his lady, L, from the airport.  We waited quite a long time for them, and worried that we'd missed them.  But we eventually found each other, and the mini-Rourke reunion had begun!

The view from Drift - our condo is in the group of tall buildings left center

**Thanks, travel buddies, for your awesome photos!